| Food Shopping:
Casino , butcher, 2x backery in Pont-en-Royans.
Supermarkets in St.Marcellin(18km), or
in Villard-di-Lans(24km)
Gear:
Croque Montagne in Pont-en-Royans. Has everything to suit
the needs of a climber - gear, clothings, guide books.
Internet:
Internet Centre in Pont-en Royans. Free on Saturday mornings
(2007)
Where to stay:
• Camping Municipal in Pont-en-Royans (next to the football
field, by the river)
• Camping in dir. To St.Jean-en-Royans off the main
road
• 3x camping in Choranche
• Div. Gite rural
• Hotel in Choranche
Guide books:
Grimper en Isere**
Presles
Vercor**
Autor du Grenoble
...and you´ll have enough massives to last a life time.
Altitudes:
from 700m - 990m
Season:
all year round, provided that the summer don't bring hot temperatures
Balme Etrange ****
This area is situated just above the entrance of the caves
of choranche and consists of 3 main sectors.The majority of
the routes are good and very much worth it.
Faces:
West, cool in the mornings
Distance:
20mins from the Parking lot
Routes:
2 sectors with ca. 50 routes 6a - 8a, steep walls + slightly
overhanging.
Height:
35m at 900m sea level.
Stone:
Limestone
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Pierrot beach***
The site was opened especially for the youth championship
held in pierrot beach a couple of years back.
It´s recommended to bring helmets along if you´re
going to sectors Mur bleu + Dalles... A via feratta goes above
these sectors, alpine routes too. Most of the other sectors
are overhanging, or out of reach so you won't need a Helmet
there. Sector Finales would be good on rainy days.
Stone:
Limestone
Rain:
climbeable on the first few rainy days.
Faces :
South, southeast
Distance:
10-20 mins from the Parking lot
Routes: 5 sectors with 73 routes fr. 5c -
8b+, steep walls, overhangs, slabs.
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La Goulandiere ***
You would'nt really expect to find a such a lovely climbing
area admidst parking along the touristy gorge where thousands
of motocyclists and cars seem to just pass by roaring down
the gorge. But after obtaining a few walking meters and within
the the next curb, the traffic will slowly just disappear
from sight and sound. A little paradise shaded by the trees
and thus making it also possible to climb in summer. The name
of the routes are all written down caringly and although we
didn't climb there while visiting (coz it poured cats and
dogs), it's definately a place I won't miss the next time.
Access:
Driving in the direction of Villard de Lans (D531), park just
before the village Balme de Rencurel, walk back on the main
road for 200m and take the ascending trail heading for the
Refuge de la Goulandiere on the right. Continue for about
15 minutes. Shortly after reaching a point where 2 blocks
on both sides stands, take the path on the right ascending
the crags in 3 mins (stone piles). 20 mins altogether.
Faces:
South/East, with shady trees in front. Good on hot days, shade
after 2pm.
Routes:
Concretions, limestone mix. 55 routes from 5c - 7c, well secured.
Steep - slightly overhanging.
Height: 25m - 40m
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Rencurel*
An interesting group of crags situated in the valley of Rencurel,
growing literally out of the meadows. With the small river
in front of the crags , this makes an ideal spot for families
with children.
Charakter :
Sectors Nenuphars, bataeu and Finale has longer
routes till 40m. The rest are from 10-15 m.
Access:
From Pont-en-Royans drive through the gorge de la
Bourne.Turn left after Balme de encurel and head for Rencurel.
After the first group of houses, turn left to take the trail
road descending till the sport place. Park just after a small
bridge.2 mins to the crags
Stone:
Limestone layers, concretions.
Routes :
36 Routes from 5a - 8a, 10m - 35m
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Tina dalle***
Tina Dalle, offers a dream area for every lazy sportsclimber
who loves long walks to the spot. As you drive along the way
to the crag you will see from a distance this imposing peace
of rock jutting out mercilessly in the clouds as your heart
beats faster just as you reach the access right at the bottom
of the crag. What you are looking at is the presles massive
offering sportsclimbing routes from 4c - 8c+ as well as alpine
routes far more left. As you park your car in the next curb,
you walk back about 200m to reach the access that takes you
in 2 min to the first route.You'd find on your left routes
with easier grades, on the right routes that needs plenty
of endurance. Due to the fact that it is absolutely south
sided the best time to go there is either after 3.30pm in
the summer or restrict climbing only during the colder months.
Using the guide book from Vercor, the routes are well described
and rated.
Charakter :
Tufas, horizontal wall climbing or overhangs. The
wall is blessed with good jugs and pockets. A good portion
of endurance would be an advantage.
Rock:
Limestone.
Routes :
from 5a - 8a, 30m - 40 m
Faces :
South
top
Tamee***
Even just hiking through the gorge would give you an impressive
image of how the rivers used to flow. Situated high on the
terrains of Tamee, you could enjoy peacefull climbing in a
lovely, quiet ambient. 2 major sites and a few other sectors
scattered here and there - find topos laid out in the Bar
in Oriol-en-Royans. Take notice that climbing is only tolerated
as you´re climbing on private property. So please behave
and be nice to your neighbours.
Period:
Climbing is possible all year round.Possibly too hot in summer.
Faces:
South, East, West.
Rain:
Keeps dry for a short period of rain.
Routes:
Auberge d´Espagnol- 70 routes from 6c+ - 8c, 30 - 40m
La Plage - 30 routes from 7a - 8a+
Height :
35m+above
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